Poitou - Charentes

French regional jewelry - Poitou - Charentes

 

 


local ccostume from Niort - pastel

 

 

 

The silver chatelaine clip

 

The most distinctive piece of jewellery in the Poitou - Charentes region is the silver chatelaine which women wore on their skirts.  Chatelaines are known as claviers (lou clavié) in Provence, chatelaines in Alsace and crochets in Poitou-Charentes and the Pays de la Loire. Some authors thought they had identified chatelaines set with rhinestones in Normandy however these are in fact, at least originally before transformation, busquières (see section Normandy). Chatelaines are formed of a length of metal more or less decorated and often engraved and pierced, then bent back on itself with a spatula-shaped segment to hang on the inside of the skirt. They are generally used to suspend a pair of scissors on two chains, sometimes a key and, according to Lionel Bonnemère, a punch used to kill poultry was suspended in Poitou.


There are differences in the shapes of the chatelaines according to the regions. In the south, there is a special type which has at the top a door-knocker shaped ring which opens with a silver screw. This ring was used to hang keys, leaving the chains free for a pair of scissors. There are also chatelaines in the south where the simple chains are split by a separator with a design matching that of the hook. Niort was an important centre of manufacture of chatelaines in the 19th century and there are chatelaines from Niort to be found throughout the southern half of France, most of which were manufactured between 1815 and 1880. Below you will find a selection of the typical designs encountered, for a full description I would recommend the book "Les bijoux traditionnels Poitevins" by Christian Gendron, from which the classifications have been determined. (1) )

 

 

Chatelaine clip type A1 - model with whole heart

 


silver châtelaine clip, Poitou Charentes

 

 

 

 

Chatelaine clip type A2 - model with whole heart, engraved

 

 

 

         
silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes
 

 

 

         

silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes
 

 

 

 

 

Chatelaine clip type B2 - model with open-cut heart, engraved

 

 


silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes
 

 

 


silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes
 

 

 

    


silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes

 

 


silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes

 

 

 


gold plated brass chatelaine clip from Poitou Charentes
 

 

 

 

 

Chatelaine clip type C1 - model with cut-out flowered border, engraved

 


silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes
 
silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes

 

 

   
silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes

 

 

 


Chatelaine clip type C2 - model with cut-out flowered border, heart shaped cut-out interieur, engraved


 

 


silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes

silver chatelaine clip Poitou Charentes

silver chatelaine clip

 

    

silver chatelaine clip

 

 

 

 

Chatelaine clip type D - model in the form of a lyre, engraved

 

 

 

 

 

chatelaine clips in form of a lyre, silver

 

chatelaine clip in the form of a lyre, silver

 

 

thirteen silver chatelaine clips in the form of a lyre, all hallmarked at Niort
click of the photo to see it in high resolution

 

 

 

 

Chatelaine clip type E - model with vase or basket of flowers, engraved

 

 

    

 

 

 

 

chatelaine clips with basket of flowers motifs


 

 


traditional jewellery from Poitou-Charantes region - source Gallica
click to see in high resolution

 

 

 

 

Guimbarde fibule brooch


Silver Guimbarde fibule brooch for fixing a man's neck-kerchief

 

 


how the Guimbarde brooch is used to close a man's shirt (document from 1903)

 

 

         
Silver Guimbarde fibule brooch

 

 

 

 


Silver Guimbarde fibule brooch, 1798-1809

 

 


Silver Guimbarde fibule brooch, 1809-1819

 

 

 

 


brooch from Vendée in silver

 

 

 

 

Vendée stick pin

 

 


pin from Vendée in silver

 

 

 

 

Shirt buttons

 


antique silver shirt buttons, hand engraved

 

 

 

         
antique silver shirt buttons, hand engraved

 

 

 

         
antique silver shirt buttons, hand engraved

 

 

 

       
antique silver shirt buttons, hand engraved

 

 

 


antique silver shirt buttons, hand engraved "IL TIEN" (200%)

 


Silver buttons used to close the neck of the shirt, the scallop shell design is very typical of the region


 

         
Silver buttons used to close the neck of the shirt and a pair of cufflinks, Poitou region

 

 


pair of cuff links with traditional scallop design

 

 

 

 

Men's shirt clasps

 

         
men's shirt clasp in silver

 

 

     
men's shirt clasp in silver

 

 

    
men's shirt clasp in silver

 

 

  
men's shirt clasp in silver

 

 

 

         
men's shirt clasp in silver

 

 

         
men's shirt clasp in silver

 

 

         
men's shirt clasp in silver

 

 

 

 

Men's coat clasp with cut-out star and lozenge motifs

 

         
men's coat clasp (half) in cut-out and engraved silver, 1819-1838

 

 

 


two men's coat clasps in cut-out and engraved silver

 

 

 

 

Men's coat or cape clasp with cut-out swirl motifs

 

         
men's coat clasp in cut-out and engraved silver,, 1838-1919

 

 

 

 

Men's coat or cape clasp with cut-out flower motifs

 

 

         
silver cape clasp, cut-out and engraved silver, 1819-1838

 

 

        
silver cape clasp, cut-out and engraved silver, 1838-1819

 

 

        
silver cape clasp, cut-out and engraved silver, 1838-1819

 

 

        
silver cape clasp, cut-out and engraved silver, 1838-1819

 

 

 

 

Men's coat or cape clasp with rounded, engraved decor

 

  


men's coat or cape clasp in silver

 

 

 

Cape clasp with central flower motif and palmette terminals


silver cape clasp

 

 

    

silver cape clasp

 

 

 

    
silver cape clasp

 

 

 

Cape clasp with facetted decor and central cabochon

 


silver cape clasp

 

 

 

 


coat clasp in pressed silver, facetted and engraved, front

 


poinçon

 

 


cape clasp in pressed silver, facetted and engraved, back view

 

 


cape clasp in pressed silver, facetted and engraved, 19th century

 

Despite having Parisien hallmarks, the above cape clasp can be attributed to the Poitou-Charente region because the design is quite distinctive.  Although at first glance similar to the Normandy clasps, those used in Poitou-Charentes always have a pronounced rosace at the extremities and usually, though not always, one at the top and one at the bottom.

 

 

 

         
coat clasp in cast silver, facetted and engraved, transformed into belt buckle

 

 

 

Coat or cape clasp with facetted decor and central drop-shaped motif

 

         
coat clasp in cut-out silver, facetted and engraved, Poitou-Charentes, 19th century

 

 

 

 

Cape clasp type A1 with a central basket motif surounded by a C
garland border festooned with pearls

 


cape clasp, stamped silver

 

 

 

Cape clasp type A2 àwith a central basket and a C shaped motif
and a godron border

 


cape clasp, stamped silver

 

       
cape clasp, stamped silver

 


cape clasp, stamped silver

 

 

 


cape clasp, stamped silver

 

 

    
 
cape clasp, stamped silver

 

 


cape clasp, stamped silver
 

 

 

 

Cape clasp type A1/A2 with a central basket and a C shaped motif
godron border surrounded by a garland and festooned with pearls

 


silver cape clasp

 

 

 

 

Cape clasp type B with central palm leaf motif

 

    
cape clasp in stamped silver with palm leaf motif

 

 


small silver cape or overshirt (men's blue smock) clasp

 

 

 

 

Cape clasp type D with entwined motifs

 

    
cape clasp in stamped silver

 

 

 

 

Cape clasp type E with bouquet of wheat and crescent

 


silver cape clasp

 

 

 

Cape clasp type F avec with added border


cape clasp in stamped silver with added soldered border

 

 

 

 

The Poitou flat cross

        

    
flat cross from Poitou with its slide, in engraved gold
according to Michel Yvon, "this cross is also typical to Bordeaux" (to be confirmed)

 

 

 


Shoe and hat buckles from the Poitevin region
 

 

The silver shoe buckles from the Poitou and Vendée region with their motifs of scallops and fleur-de-lys are very characteristic of the region.

 

 

Buckle with four scallop design, rounded corners

 

 

              
two silver shoe buckles from Poitou with design of four scallops

 

 

 


silver shoe buckle from Poitou with design of four scallops

 

 

 

Buckle with eight scallop design, sharp corners

 

 

         
shoe buckle from Poitou with design of eight scallops
 

 

 

 

                   
two silver shoe buckles from Poitou with design of eight scallops, made by Quentin Aubineau à Niort

 

 

 


silver hat buckle from Poitou with design of eight scallops

 

 

 

 

           
two silver shoe buckles from Poitou with design of eight scallops

 

 

 

         
two silver shoe buckles from Poitou with design of eight scallops

 

 

 

Buckle with fleur-de-lys design

 


silver hat buckle from Poitou with design of eight fleurs-de-lys

 

 

         
silver shoe buckle from Poitou with design of eight fleurs-de-lys
 

 

 

         
two silver shoe buckles from Poitou with design of eight fleurs-de-lys

 

 

 

                   
three silver shoe buckles from Poitou with design of eight fleurs-de-lys

 

 

 

 


folk costume from the Poitevin region - Lusignan

 

 


folk costume from La Rochelle with silver chatelaine clip

 

 


folk dress from the Poitou region

 

 


folk dress from the Poitou region

 

 


La Rochelle

 

 

(1)  GENDRON, Christian., Les bijoux traditionnels poitevins, Editions Musées Vivants Niort, 1992 

(2)  La tradition en Poitou et Charentes, Libraire de la tradition nationale, 1897

 

 

Contact me with your suggestions, corrections, photos, questions and comments!


 

contents:

Crochet à ciseaux, châtelaine, agrafe de cape, bijoux poitevins, bijoux charentais, bijoux régionaux, bijoux régionaux, les bijoux traditionnels Français, bijoux des regions de France, croix régionale - Les bijoux traditionnels poitevins par Christian Gendron, traditional French jewellery, jewelry, French regional jewellery, croix Jeannette- antieke zeeuwse streeksieraden in zeeland friesland - Brabantse klederdrachten en streeksieraden

 

 

French regional jewelry - Poitou - Charentes