Rhône-Alpes - Savoy

Rhône Alpes - Savoy

 


Savoy regional costumes and jewellery

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

Savoy has had a rather turbulent history and has changed hands several times.  From 1792 to 1815 it was a part of France, but in 1815 it was returned to the house of Savoy until 1860 and the signing of the treaty of Turin, at which time it was irrevocably ceded to France.  The mountain people often bought their jewellery during a voyage to Turin and one sees an Italian influence in Savoyard jewellery, especially in the slides formed like a ribbon bow.  As well as Italian jewellery, the Savoyards would bring back jewellery from the warmer areas in which they moved to for work during the rigourous Savoy winters, and one often finds Nice and Provencal crosses in Savoy.  Although it has been claimed in some references that "bosse" crosses were made  and worn in Savoy, not one of the crosses presented to me had Savoy hallmarks and it can be assumed that the rare examples cited were in fact made elsewhere and came from purchases, gifts, marriages or inheritances from other regions.  


An important documentation of the Savoy mountain folk culture, costumes and legends was published by the artist Estella Canziani with "Costumes, traditions and songs of Savoy" in 1911. (1)  Some of her lithographs have been reproduced at the bottom of this page.


 

The grille cross of Chambéry



 


Grille cross from Chambéry, engraving from the article by Laurent Sevez, 1862
photo courtesy BNF   (3)

 

 bijoux de France - French reg

 

 

 
Silver grille cross from Chambéry
 

 

 

 

 


Heart-shaped slide with Sardinian hallmarks, silver

 

 

ional jewelry - Antique

 bijoux de France - French re


  grille cross from Chambéry, gold
 
  grille cross from Chambéry, gold
 
  grille cross from Chambéry, gold

Grille cross from Chambéry, gold
 

 

 


Grille cross from Chambery in gold, front

 


Grille cross from Chambery in gold, back

 

 



Detail of the Chambery grille cross, note the thickened area
at the top to stop the hole from enlarging after extended use

 




The Dauphinoise cross

e jewelry

The ends of the arms of the dauphinoise grille crosses have more openwork than those Chambery grille cross, and they have less of a kite shape and more of a triangulaire shape.  Unlike the grille crosses from Chambéry or Saint Colomban des Villards, these crosses don't have a figure of Mary on the reverse.  According to Paul Bisch, these crosses were known as "croix dentelles" or "lace crosses" in the nineteenth century.   

 


Dauphinoise cross with a
  slider from Val d'Arly, gold
(Christ missing)


Dauphinoise cross with a
  slider from Val d'Arly, gold

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


 Dauphinoise grille cross in gold

 


 "Dauphinoise" cross in gold with its slider


   Dauphinoise cross with its slider, gold

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewel

 

 

The Bessans cross

 


Bessans cross or "As cross", in silver, Turin, 1824

 

         
Bessans cross or "As cross" in silver, Turin

 


 

The Tignes cross

 

         
Tignes cross with its slide

 

 

The Tignes cross is a variation of the "As cross", and is found in the valley of Tignes.  It's always in gold and lacks the bow-shaped slide and the hinged element found between the slide and the cross.  As with other crosses, it's not always found with a slide.

.

 

 

The baton cross

 

 
Flat baton cross from Savoy, silver
 
Flat baton cross from Savoy, gold
 

 



Flat baton cross from Savoy, gold

 

The Beaufortain cross

 


Cross from Beaufortain, silver

 

 

 


Beaufortain cross with its slider,
gold

 


Beaufortain cross with its slider, gold

 


 

 

 

The Valloire cross

 

 

 


Valloire cross with its original chain


cross from Valloire, Savoy, gold

 

Valloire crosses, gold

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewellery

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelllery

y
Valloire and baton crosses in the catalogue by the manufacturer Baudot, Paris, Empire period
These crosses were popular in the Champagne region and were made there and in Paris

 

 

 

 
 
croix de Valloire

croix de Valloire

croix de Valloire
 

Valloire cross - it's interesting to speculate that the three stars on rods that we see protruding from the large cross in the church of Valloire
(see engraving above) may well be the origin of the three groups of raised spots on the Mary side of the gold Valloire cross shown here.

 

 

The Villards flat cross

 

Perhaps the most spectacular and certainly the largest of the French regional jewels, the Villards flat silver cross can measure up to 15cm in diameter.  Always keep brightly polished by the wearer, you can see some photos of villagers wearing them below, which will give an idea of their size.

 


Very early type I "des Villards" flat cross, engraving from the article by Laurent Sevez, 1862, courtesy of BNF (3)

 

 


Large type I "des Villards" flat cross with its heart-shaped slider and original ribbon, silver

 

 


Large type I "des Villards" flat cross with its heart-shaped slider and original ribbon, silver

 

 

 


Large type II "des Villards" flat cross with its heart-shaped slider and original beaded ribbon, silver

 bijoux de France -

French

gional jewelry - Antique jewel

 


Large type II "des Villards" flat cross, silver

 

 

 


Large type II "des Villards" flat cross, silver

 

 

The Villards grille cross

 

 


Large Villards grille cross in silver with its original beaded ribbon

 

 

 

 


Large Villards grille cross in silver with its original beaded ribbon
 

 

 

 


Large Villards grille cross in silver - engraved "Souvenir d'alliance Marie Philomène Tronel née Molaret"
 

 

 

 

 

 

 


grande croix plate des Villards, argent

 


grande croix plate des Villards, argent

 

Large Villards grille cross in silver

 

The large grille cross from Saint Colomban des Villards, more recent than the flat cross and also always made of silver, is very similar to the grille cross from Chambéry.  It is however very much larger, up to 15cm wide and generally engraved with the name of the owner instead of INRI.

 

 


Saint Colomban des Villards - grille crosses on the left and flat crosses on the right, all very large.

 bijoux de Fr

ance


large Villards grille cross in silver

 

 


selection of Savoy silver sliders

 


 

- Fr
nch regional jewelry - The flowered crossAntique jewelry

 


 fleurie (flowered) cross from Savoy, gold

 fleurie (flowered) cross from Savoy, gold

 Fleurie (flowered) crosses from Savoy, gold

 

The flowered cross from Savoy is a recent jewel, having been introduced by the Sainson family of jewelers in Grenoble around 1880.  The design is based on a baton cross which has an embellishment at the centre. A few examples based on a flat cross are known but were not successful. 

 

 

 


flowered cross from Savoy in gold, recto

 


flowered cross from Savoy in gold, verso

 

 

 

 

The cabochon cross on a Turin knot slide

The acticulated cross with diamond cabochons is fitted with a hinge to a Turin knot slide.  The cabochons are faceted to resemble precious stones and the knot is set with either one or five of these cabochons.  These crosses were worn in the Maurienne and Piedmont regions.

 

 

 

 

 

Maurienne cabochon cross with a Turin knot slide in silver gilt

 

 

 

 

Other crosses

 


Faucigny cross, gold-plated
 
 Jeannette cross with enamelled plaque, gold plated, Savoy
 


 Jeannette cross with enamelled plaque, gold

 

 


  Biface cross with facetted spheres, gold plated

 


  Biface cross in gold plated silver

 

 

 

The Jeannette cross from Savoy

 bijoux de France - French regio

 


Gold Tarentaise Jeannette cross, on a beaded ribbon from Bourg Saint Maurice
Note how there is an interruption in the beaded design of the ribbon
to allow the slide to be fixed without covering any of the motifs.

 

nal jeweSry - Antique jewelry

 


Gold Jeannette cross from Savoy

Although some jewellers today don't follow the convention, on the traditional Jeannette crosses from Savoy the arms become narrower along their length, unlike those from other regions of France which stay the same width all along their length.  Of course one can come across a Jeannette cross from another region in Savoy, even complete with its ribbon and slide, but if one examines the the crosses one finds in Savoy as well as the old prints and engravings one notes that the convention was quite strictly observed in the past.  The engaving for the article by Laurent Sevez, published in 1862 and illustrated below, does however show the arms of that Jeannette cross to be the same width along their length, and one of the gold crosses below is the same.  The cross on the engraving is virtually identical to the cross above, where one can see the difference in width is very subtle.  It is likely that the artist didn't remark the difference and used a ruler to make his engraving.


Jeannette cross, gold


 

 


gold Jeannette cross from Savoy with a slide from the Val d'Arly

 


silver Jeannette cross from Savoy with a slide from the Val d'Arly

 

 


Jeannette cross from Savoy, gold


Jeannette cross from Savoy, gold

 


Jeannette cross from Savoy, gold


Jeannette cross from Savoy, gold

Jeannette crosses from Savoy, gold

 

 

         

Jeannette cross from Savoy in gold with a close-up of the Sardinian hallmark

 

 

                   
silver Jeannette cross from Savoy with its slide and Sardinian hallmark

 

 

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewel

 


Jeannette cross, engraving for the article by Laurent Sevez, 1862, photo BNF (3)

 

 

 

Savoy créole earrings

 

         

Savoy créole earrings, gold

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelr

y - Antique jewelry


Savoy creole earrings, gold


Savoy creole earrings, gol


 Savoy creole earr

 

ings, gold

 

 

 

 

 


Savoy créole earrings, gold

 


 

 

  Savoy creole earrings, gold

 

 


Mr. Bonsaquet from Chambéry collected French regional jewels and enjoyed sharing his passion with his clients
click on the photo to see it in high resolution

 

 

Rustic Art in Savoie

 

     It took us seven or eight hours to reach a world where the costumes were two centuries old, where the pastoral life was two millennia old. I was thinking of Conan Doyle's novel where explorers lost in the heart of South America discover on a plateau sealed by an impracticable cliff "a lost world", a world of the prehistoric era.

     Then, at about ten o'clock, when the first bell of the High Mass struck, we entered the church of Saint-Colomban-des-Villars. What a surprise and what a bedazzlement!

     The bright, melted colors that, fallen from a stained glass window, illuminated the slabs of an old nave by the great light of the great sun, seemed to have settled on the heads and shoulders of the peasant women and children who filled the church.

     But these colors had an unknown consistency, as they were those of headdresses, shawls, hats and glittering jewels.

     The church was really flaming with colors; the beguines of the children, the shawls with the long fringes of the peasant women, the glittering fabrics, the chains of the corsages, all shone, all sang to the eyes.

     By what miracle, in this village of St-Colombans, in all this region of Arves, less than 20 kilometers from the great railroad from Paris to Modane, near the industrialized Maurienne, this vestige bursting of the ancient peasant civilization has it subsisted; how is it that these audacious colors, these costumes of an almost aggressive archaism, are not tarnished by the smoke of the nearby factories?

     It cannot be explained.

     What I know is that in this evening, a Sunday in July, fourteen years ago, I felt with an unforgettable intensity, all that was originality, cheerfulness, flavour and lifeblood of the rustic art of the past, and all that rural France has lost by losing it.

     And it is to fix the memory of this past that will soon die, that these notes were written.

Philippe de Las Cases, L'Art Rustique en France - Dauphiné et Savoie, 1930 (4)

 

 

 

Bresse jewellery

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewel


cross garnished with enamels from Bresse, silver

 bijoux de France - French

 

 

 
cross garnished with enamels from Bresse, silver
 
cross garnished with enamels from Bresse, silver
 

 

Although these enamelled crosses were popular around their production zone of Bourg en Bresse, they were also worn in other regions of France and thus cannot be considered to be regional crosses.  Small enamelled plaques made in Bourg en Bresse were sold throughout France to local jewellers who assembled them into slave necklaces and other jewels.

 bijoux de FrWance - Fre

 


Mary medal with Bresse enamels, gold

 

 


Ear pendants with Bresse enamels in silver

/ckfinder/userfiles/images/grands/croix_en_email_de_bresse_Bressan.jpg regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


collier d'esclavage (slave necklace) in gold set with enamels from Bresse

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


coiffe pin in gold set with an enamel plaque

 

 

         
silver locket with Bresse enamel decoration

 

 

These little gold plaques, made in Bourg en Bresse, were sold throughout France and were then lead-soldered onto jewels by the local jewellers.

 


Charles Robert Leslie - The jewellery travelling salesman

 

 


French regional costume - Brionnais


French regional costume - Bressane

           bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


Bressane folk costumes
 

 

 

 

Savoy

Estella Canziani

Reproductions taken from the fascinating book by Estella Canziani (1887 - 1964), "Costumes, traditions and songs of Savoy", published for the first time in 1911 and relating her regular visits with her father to the mountain villages of Savoy. (1)  Estella Canziani, daughter of the English painter Louisa Starr and an Italian engineer, was an accomplished artist and fascinated by the traditional costumes, customs and folklore that were rapidly disappearing with the dawn of the 20th century.  Her collection of artifacts, costumes, stories and legends together with the paintings and drawings she made are an invaluable record of the people of England, France and Italy amongst whom she lived.  One hundred years after their first publication, the books of Estella Canziani are still in print and her illustrations are always sought after by collectors and historians.

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

click on the photos and engravings to see them in high resolution
 


French traditional jewelry - Estella Canziani
1 - cross and porte-croix of tarantaise
2 - cross and porte-croix of Saint Jean d'Arves and of la Maurienne
3 - Cross and heart of Bourg Saint Mauriuce
4 - wedding ring of La Maurienne

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


French traditional jewellery - Estella Canziani
1 & 2 - crosses and hearts (slides) worn by the peasants
of Saint Colomban des Villards.   3 - ear-rings from Tarantaise

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


Estella Canziani - children from Saint Sorlin d'Arvres, c1909

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Canziani - child from Montaimont, painted in 1910

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Canziani - Sunday dress from Bourg Saint Maurice, painted 1907

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Canziani - folk costume from Jarrier, painted 1907

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


Estella Canziani - in the church of Valloire, circa 1909


 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Canziani - folk costume from Bourg Saint Maurice c1909

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Graziani - sunday dress of la Valloire, c1909

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


Estella Canziani - women bargaining, c1909

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


Estella Canziani - lacemaking, c1909

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


Estella Canziani - girl from La Valloire in mourning dress, c1909

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Canziani - mourning costume from Saint Colomban des Villards, c1909

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Canziani - Saint Colomban des Villards, c1909

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Saint Alban des Villards - note the large silver cross
  (today the village has seven times fewer inhabitants than in 1906!)

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Canziani : sunday dress from Saint Jean d'Arves, circa 1909

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Savoy regional costume and jewellery - Beaufortain cross

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


Estella Canziani - interieur used as stables, bedroom and kitchen, Savoy circa 1909

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Canziani - marriage cap, c1909

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Estella Canziani - folk-dress of Foncouverte and Jarrier, c1907

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


Villagers from Saint Colomban des Villards.  Note the large silver "Villard" crosses,
the distinctive regional costumes (and the wary looks at the photographer!)

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


folk dress and silver cross from Saint Jean d'Arves, Savoy

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


French folk dress and silver cross from Saint Jean d'Arves, Savoy

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


  grille cross from Chambéry & regional folk dress -  Savoy

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


 
Costumes, traditions and songs of Savoy - Montaimont


 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


bijoux et croix des provinces de Savoie - Maurienne

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry
 


Saint Colomban des Villards - French folk dress and silver crosses

 

 bij


 Savoy regional costume - Maurienne

oux de France - French region

 

al jewelry - Antiue jewelry


Estella Canziani - belt claps from Saint Colomban des Villards

 

 


Estella Canziani
1.  Clasps for ceintures.  2.  Butterflies and stars for decorating ceintures of Saint Colomban des Villards

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry
 


Estella Canziani - 1.  Clasps for ceintures (belts)
2.  Clasps for aprons.   3.  Stars for decorating ceintures.  Saint Colomban

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


Estella Canziani - Entrance to the upper story of a stable

 bijoux de France - French reional jewelry - Antique jewels


(1)     CANZIANI, Estella., Costumes, traditions and songs of Savoy, Chatto and Windus 1911
(2)     JOANNIS, Claudette.,
Bijoux des régions de France,  Flammarion, 1992

(3)     SEVEZ, Laurent., Notice sur la bijouterie et l'iconographie religieuse des campagnes de la Savoie, Mémoires et documents publié par la Société savoisienne d'histoire et d'archéologie, 1862
(4)     de LAS CASES, Philippe, L'Art Rustique en France - Dauphiné et Savoie, 1930

 

 

 

contenu

Bijoux bressans, croix de Bresse, croix bressane, émaux de Bresse, email bressan, CARO, Delphine, BENON Laurent & FAIVRE, Aurélie., Emaux de Bresse - Joyaux du quotidien,  VICAIRE, Gabriel., Emaux Bressans, H. Lardanchet, AGNES, Bruno., Emaux bressans parures charmantes, Taillanderie, CANZIANI, Estella., Costumes, traditions and songs of Savoy, Chatto and Windus 1911     CANZIANI, Estella., Costumes, moeurs et légendes de Savoie, Editions Equinoxe, 2003, DEQUIER, Daniel & ISLER, François., Costumes de fêtes en Savoie, EVEZ, Laurent., Notice sur la bijouterie et l'iconographie religieuse des campagnes de la Savoie, TROSSET, Jean-Pierre., Bijoux et croix des provinces de Savoie, Chez l'auteur, 2003, TROSSET, Jean-Pierre., Les croix de Savoie, Chez l'auteur, 1993, bijoux savoyards, croix savoyarde, croix grille de Chambéry, croix dauphiné, croix des Villards, croix bosse, Saint Colomban des Villards, croix bessans, croix à l'as, croix de Valloire, croix fleuri, créoles savoyards, croix gapençais, croix de Faucigny, croix plate pattée

 

French regional jewellery
Rhône Alpes - Bresse